Like any industry even the perfume industry went through variety of trends. But it has not experienced something pathbreaking since a long time.
Brands want to lure the customers at the very first spray. Companies now modify their popular formulas and come up with a new extension under same brand name.
But midst all this, one perfumer decided to break the rules.
Geza Schoen, the master perfumer brought something unsual to the market.
You know that a perfume consists of top, middle and base note. But have you ever heard of a perfume that has none of these?
How is that even possible?
Yes, there is a perfume house which has dared to do all that. They call themselves the cult perfumery brand.
This story is about the brand Escentric Molecules Molecule 01.
Escentric Molecules Molecule 01
Escentric Molecules made it’s debut in 2006 with Molecule 01, the brainchild of the perfumer Geza Schoen.
Molecule 01 as the name suggests, is based out of one single compound i.e. Iso E Super.
It does not have a top, middle or base note. Just Iso E Super
Iso E Super
A chemical compound developed in 1973 by two chemists named John B. Hall & James M. Sanders from the International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF)
Since then this compound has became a staple in modern perfumery.
It is highly versatile and blends effortlessly with various fragrance families and uplifts their essence.
Iso E Super is so popular because it plays many interesting roles.
1. Fixative
As a fixative, Iso E Super binds to the volatile or the lighter molecules and prevents them from evaporating too soon. This makes the fragrance last little longer
2. Blender
Iso E Super smoothens out the transitions. It fills the void between various notes and unifies the entire perfume. Just like an amination between two presentation slides.
3. Fragrance of its own
Iso E Super smells sweet, woody, musky and little metallic too. In modern perfumery these are the main components in every perfume. Adding Iso E Super amplifies these components.
4. Mysterious
In one moment you can trace it and the other minute its gone, bringing an air of mystery to the perfume which is liked by many perfume users.
5. Interaction with the body chemistry.
Iso E Super is said to have pheromone-like effect which is a function used by animals to affect the behavior of other animals, especially opposite sex. A similar effect is seen in humans too.
Iso E Super has the power to stimulate the brain regions linked to emotional processing, bonding and attraction. It interacts with your body chemistry and uplifts your natural scent.
With such hype the expectations get higher and getting nose blind to Iso E Super is a common complaint that I have read across the internet. But that’s the nature of the compound. While you get nose blind it, others can still sense it around you.
So if you don’t mind being nose blind to a fragrance until it’s projecting then you must experiment with Iso E Super.
The Iso E Super is widely available in market, but the one specifically used in Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 is a private blend of IFF which is not accessible to masses otherwise.
Which Family Does Molecule 01 Fit into?
Molecule 01 (M01) does not fit into a traditional fragrance family like woody, floral etc. but rather an abstract family.
Abstract is not an official fragrance family but we can use this to define a fragrance that does not fit under any family. Just the way how a unique art is called an abstract art.
While many perfume brands market their perfumes showing natural ingredients, Escentric Molecules takes pride in being a nonconformist.
The single molecule theme picked a lot of attention in the perfume industry for it’s uniqueness.
The Smell
If you got all excited after reading till here, what’s coming next might disappoint you.
I purchased Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 because it was something new and I had high hopes. But personally it dint live up to my expectations.
When I wore it, I was unable to make any opinion. Not because it was made from a single chemical compound, but it just dint have any smell to it. A common problem many face with Molecule 01.
You will really have to dig your nose into your skin to smell it. And if somehow you manage to smell it, you find very faint musk, cedarwood, metallic and powdery notes.
As long as I am happy with the ingredients, I don’t care if the perfume projects like a beast or a puppy. So molecule 01 is not my type, but it could be yours!
Is Molecule 01 Worth Your Time & Money?
Personally, I dint find anything valuable in here. The concept seems interesting, but disappoints when you use it.
Views are subjective, for some Molecule 01 has even turned out to be their daily scent. So there are customers who are in love with Molecule 01.
Did Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 Fail?
Not entirely because Molecule 01 does have a user base. But for me it felt like an experiment that needed more time and feedback before coming out of the lab.
After the initial mixed response, the fragrance community and customers started seeing Molecule 01 as a layering scent. I dont think it makes sense to spend money on one perfume just to layer it with another. Better to buy a bigger bottle of the perfume you like.
EM saw this and to prevent M01 from being labelled as mere a layering scent, they had to make a move.
To counter this they launched extensions of Molecule 01 under the name Molecule 01 + Cistus, Molecule 01 + Patchouli, Molecule 01 + Mandarin and Molecule 01 + Iris. And that finally gave customers an option to experience Molecule 01 DNA with some actual notes.
Also the reviews of the combination look more promising than the original Molecule 01.
Conclusion
It is appreciable how Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 brings a new concept.
Such breakthroughs invite more creativity to the market and ultimately the customer gets the benefit.
But when such an unique concept is not backed by a serious performance, the usage and sustenance becomes questionable. Striking a right balance between natural and lab elements remain the key.
- Concept- 9.5/10
- Smell- 2/10
- Longevity- 2/10
- Silage- 3/10
- Scent Buddy Rating for Molecule 01- 05/10.
If you enjoyed reading the review, check out our other reviews- Scent Buddy
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